Travels in western India embracing a visit to the sacred mounts of the jains and the most celebrated shrines of hindu faith between rajpootana and the indus, with an account of the ancient city of nehrwalla

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTION.-Motives for the present Journey-Reasons for the Author's leaving India- Sentiments of respect and regard of the native Princes towards the Author-His proposed route to Bombay
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Oodipoor-Enter the pass to Gogoonda-Aspect of the country-Gassyar- Asylum of Krishna-Discharge of servants-Improvement of the climate-Temple of the Buroonie pass-Geology of the Hills-Gogoonda-Revenue-Cultivation-Chief of Gogoonda -Matrimonial connexion between the houses of Oodipoor and Gogoonda-Effects of unequal alliances in Rajpootana-The Rao of Kotario-Saimur-Aspect and climate of the Aravulli- Plants-Agriculture-Character of the mountain Rajpoots-Chiefs of villages-Their tradi- tionary tales-Dress-Habitations-Sources of the Bunas-Legend of the river-Western declivity of the Aravulli-Magnificence of the pass-Vegetation-Fruits...
CHAPTER III.
Grateful attention of the Author's attendants-Narrowness of the pass-Cairn-Forays of the Meenas-Power of the Bhils-Their habits, manners, origin, and language-Wild Bhils- Anecdote-Aborigines of India-Superstitions of the Bhils-Fidelity of the Bhils to their religion and country-Causes of their change of character-Sirna, or sanctuary-The Saloombra chief and his vassal, the murderer of some Bhils-Execution of Bhil plunderers— The Sariahs-Their habits and manners
Beejipoor-View of the Aravulli-Unfavourable state of the season-Temple of Rayn-poorji— Coins-Ancient towns-Respect paid by the Rana towards the Jain priesthood-Bhyâd of Beejipoor-Correspondence between the religious rites of Syria and of the Saura Peninsula— Sun-worship-Birgong-Meena towns-Anecdote of a Meena feud-Great heat-Different effects of the same degree of heat on the frame-Buhee-Sarohi, Capital of the Deora Rajpoots -Temple of Siva-Indo-Getic Customs of the Chohans-Condition of the principality of Sarohi-Its enfranchisement from dependence upon Marwar effected by the Author-Beneficial results of the measure-Policy to be pursued towards the native Princes of India-Want of a Code of Laws for British India-Geography of Sarohi—Reports of the Rajpoots by early travellers-Interview with the Rao-Description of the Capital-Statistics—Early history of the Deoras.......

CHAPTER V.
Maireoh-Jain temples - Palrie-Reach the skirts of Aboo-Preparations for its ascent- Journey up the mountain-Shrine of Ganésa-The Rahtis, or Mountaineers-Geological formation of the lower part of the mountain-Ascent to the Saints' Pinnacle-Prospect from the summit-Pudda-ca, or Impress of the foot of Data-Briga and Rama-Nanda-Seeta ascetic -Cave-dwellings-Extensive view-Descent from the summit-Achil-éswar-The brutal Aghori Self-entombment of one-Incongruities of Hindu superstition-Rules of Jain archi- tecture-Agni-Coonda, or Fire-fountain-Temples-Shrine of Achil-éswar described-Act of sacrilege of Mahomed Beyra, of Ahmedabad-Statue of Narayana-Inscription-Mausoleum of Rao Maun-Statue of Adipala-Ruins of Achilgurh-Jain temple-View from the watch- tower-Statues-Interview with the Rao-Journey to Dailwarra...........

CHAPTER VI.
Dailwarra―Temple of Vrishabdeva-Its history-Its descriptic eremonies in the temple- Inscriptions-Temple of Parswanath-Its architecture and ption-Reflections on these splendid remains-Hamlets of Aboo-Fruits and vegetab of the mountain-Temple of Arbudha-Mata-Cave-dwellings-Lake of Naki-talao-Peril of the last descent-The Gaomukh --Temple of Vasishta-Worship of the Mooni-Inscriptions Cenotaph of Dhar Pramar- Temple of Patal-éswar-Statues-Reflections-Elevation of Aboo-Defects of the Author's barometer-Aspect of the soil-Passage of the forest-Attack of Hornets-Circumference of Aboo-Analogy between the physical phenomena of Aboo and Sinai-Severe effects of the ascent on the Author's health
CHAPTER VII.
Girwur-Chandravati-Dilapidation of its relics-Discovered by the Author-Inscription- Epochs of Chandravati-Description of the ruined city-Baories-Coins-Journal of Mrs. Blair-Journey resumed-Desertion of ancient roads-Character of marauding tribes in the time of early European travellers-Mountainous range-Sarotra-Return to the plains- Cheerasani-Palhanpoor-Dewan of the district-Antiquities of Palhanpoor-Major Miles -Sidpoor-Ruins of the Roodra-Mala, a temple to Siva-Inscriptions
CHAPTER VIII.
Kingdom of NehRWALEH-Nehrwaleh, the ancient capital of Western India-Its site discovered by the Author-Inferiority of the Arabian to the Greek geographers of ancient India-Errors in respect to the position of Nehrwaleh, or Anhulwarra-Mistake of Gosselin, and probable accuracy of Herodotus-Annals of ancient Anhulwarra, the Tyre of India-Origin of the title 'Balhara'—Sun-worship-Remains of the city of Balabhi-Change of capital from Balabhi to Anhulwarra-The Komár-pál Charitra, or chronicle of Anhulwarra-Extracts therefrom- Synchronisms-Proofs that historical works are not unknown in India-Traditional founda- tion of Anhulpoor-Revolutions in India at this epoch-Sudden magnificence of the city- List of its princes-Balhara coin-Relation of the Mahomedan travellers in the ninth century 144
CHAPTER IX.
History of Anhulwarra continued-The Solankhi princes of Kalian-Change of dynasty of the princes of Anhulwarra-Synchronisms-Importance of Kalian-Confusion of Mahomedan writers—List of princes of Anhulwarra continued—Sidraj—Succession of a Chohan prince to the regal chair of the Chalucas-Countries subject to the dominion of the Balhara-Actions of Komár-pál-Confirmation of the Charitra, as to the extent and splendour of Anhulwarra-The country of the Lar-Komár-pál the supporter of Buddhism-He apostatizes to Islamism- Ajipal

CHAPTER X.
History of Anhulwarra continued-Bheemdeo-His character-Cause of the war between Anhulwarra and Ajmér-Battle between Bheem and Pirthi-raj of Delhi-The former slain- Conquests of Pirthi-raj in Guzzerat - Inscriptions-Mooldeo-Beesuldeo-Bheemdeo - Opulence of Anhulwarra-Arjundeo-Sarungdeo-Kurrundeo, the madman-Invasion of the Mussulmans-The Balhara sovereignty extinguished—The Taka race obtain Guzzerat and change the capital-Name of Anhulwarra degenerates into Puttun-Value of these historical records Enumeration of the results
CHAPTER XI.
PAGE
Remains of Anhulwarra―Their rapid disappearance-Four architectural relics only left-Speci- men of the Saracenic arch-Its invention, Hindu-Ruins of Anhulwarra applied to the building of Ahmedabad and modern Puttun-Antiques contained in the new city-Inscriptions-The Library-Saved from the Mahomedans-Property of the Khartra sect of Jains-Extent and condition of the library-Other libraries of the Jains unexplored-The Vansraj Charitra ...... 222
CHAPTER XII.
Journey resumed-Ahmedabad-Its architecture-The ruins of Anhulwarra employed in it— The work of Hindu Silpis-Comparison of the Islamite and Hindu styles-Kaira-Miseries of travelling in the monsoon-Hon. Col. Stanhope-Antiquities at Kaira-Perilous passage of the Myhie river-A groom drowned-Baroda-Sojourn with Mr. Williams, the Resident- History of Baroda....

CHAPTER XIII.
Departure from Baroda-Gajna-Huns-Cambay-Its former names-Legend of the modern name-Cambay one of the seats of Jain learning-Library-Manufactures of Cornelians, &c. -Cross the Gulf-Gogo-Inscriptions-Past and present history of Saurashtra-Origin of the Saura tribe-Resemblance between the customs of the Syrians and Sauras-Establishment of the latter in the Peninsula-Modern Saurashtra-Traces of Scythic tribes-Diversity of races in Saurashtra-Seat of the Buddhist religion-Various attractions of the country-Account of Gogo and Seerum-Atrocious conduct of the early Portuguese in these parts-Anecdote of Albuquerque--Bhaonuggur, capital of the Gohils-Reception of the chief—Motley character of his Court-Portraits of English princes-Nick-knackery-Navy of the Gohil chief-His possessions-Sketch of the family of the Gohils-Piracy their principal occupation-Seehore, a Brahmin colony-Balabhi, the ancient capital of the Méwar princes-Ancient fountain and temple of Bheemnath-Legend-Place of pilgrimage

CHAPTER XIV.
Palit'hana-The holy land of the Jains-Mount Satrunja-Jain pilgrims-Liberality and intelli- gence of the Jain sect-The Mahatma—The five teerthas of the Jains-The Sikras of Satrunja -Personages to whom the edifices on the Mount are dedicated-Hindu character of the temple of Mecca-Dates of the erections on Satrunja-Road from Palit'hana to the mountain— Ascent-Shrines and temples-Temple of Komár-pál—Shrine of Adnath-Sad effects of the dissensions of the garchas, or sects-Few ancient relics in the temples-Bad taste of the orna- ments in the temple of Adnath-Prospect from the temple-Statue of Adi-Budha-Nathji- Shrine of Rutna-ghor-Statue of Adnath-Analogy between the appellations of the Jain divini- ties, and those of Siva, and their symbols-Tomb of Henga Peer-Descent-Temple of the
sons of Deoki-Minstrel-Endowments of the sacred mounts-Assemblies of pilgrims-Pali- t'hana-Etymology of the name-Paucity of antiquities-Love-legend of Sadwaeh and Sawa- linga-Modern history and condition of Palit'hana
xili


CHAPTER XV.
Guriadhar-Aspect of the country-Damnaggur-Agriculture-Akalla-Pestilential air- Umrélie Region of the Cat'hi-Manly aspect of the Cat'his-The provincial chief of Sau- rashtra-Apparatus for irrigation-Mean appearance of the villages-Magnificent mirage- Deolah-The chief, a Cat'hi-Coincidences between the manners of eastern and western tribes-Anecdote of Jessajee-A robber turned saint-Gurreah-Habits of the Cat'his- Asylum of the Pandus-Legend of Koomti-Statue of Baldeo-Toolsishama-Scene of com- bat between Crishna and the Dyte-Shrines-Incorrect geography of our maps of this part- Dohun-Geological notices-Kowrewar-Pastoral character of this region-Superiority of the cattle-Holy Mount Mool-Dwarica-Soodrapara-Improvement in the habitations of the peasantry-Temple of the sun-Source of the Sirsooti......
CHAPTER XVI.
Puttun Somnath, or Deva Puttun-Its celebrity-Temple of the Sun-Shrine of Sid-Eswar- Legend of Kanya-Place of his death-Temple of Bheemnat'h-The Koteswara-Sculptured cross in a shrine of Mahadeo-Description of the ancient city-Original architecture-Pointed arch-Temple of Somnat'h described-Beauty of its site-Name of Mahmoud, its destroyer, unknown in the city-MS. "Story of the Fall of Puttun "-Traces of a destruction anterior to Mahmoud's-Two new eras-The modern city

CHAPTER XVII.
Remnant of early civilization in the knowledge of distances-Character of the soil-Shrines and inscriptions-Inhabitants-Choorwaur-Aheers-Mallia-Unyalla, or Ooniara-Joonagurh- Its ancient history and modern condition-The "Ancient castle” described-Reservoir of the Yadus-"The Robber's Cave"-Incognate characters-Ancient inscribed rock of Girnar—The characters-Shrines-Cryptographic inscriptions—The "Leap of Bhiroo”—Isolated masses of rock-Ancient palace of Khengar.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Reflections of the Author-Ascent to the peak of Goruknat'h-The other peaks of Girnar- Islamite saint-Legend of the shrine of Kalka-The Aghoris-A wild ascetic-Shrines-Sects of the Jains-Description of the shrines-Inscriptions-Temple of Nemi-Resemblance between the statue of Nemi and that of Memnon-The Khengar family-Night spent in the ruined palace-Descent of the mount-Pilgrims to the shrine of Nemi-Aged female Pilgrim -The Elephant Rock-Return to the tents.
CHAPTER XIX.
Dandoosir―Jinjirrie-Kattywauna-Altered course of the Bhadra-Tursye-Old city of Kun- dornah-Bhanwul-Miserable appearance of the country-Ruins of Goomlí-Temple of the Jaitwas-Temple of Ganpati-Jain temple-The Portal of Rama-Monumental pallias of the Jaitwas-Inscriptions-Historical account of the Jaitwas-Destruction of Goomlí-Chronology of Jaitwa history-Migration of the Jaitwas-Nugdeah-Deolah-Origin of the Aheers- Mooktasirr Dwarica-Desolate country-Temple of Dwarica-Shrines-The Mahatma— Legend of the Temple.....

CHAPTER XX.
Beerwalla-Aramra-Ancient Dwarica-Goreja-Graves of Yavanas-Pallias of Pirates-Bate, or Sankho-dwara-Tradition of Crishna-Shells of Bate-The Rajpoot war-shells-Pirates' Castle Shrines to the Hindu Apollo-Meera Bae, the Rajpoot poetess-Historical notices of the sea-kings--Devotion of the Pirates-The extent of their navigation

CHAPTER XXI.
The Author embarks-Parting with companions-The Author's Guru-The Cant'hi, or Gulf of Cutch-Description of the Gulf of Cutch by Ptolemy and Arrian-The Rin-Land at Man- davie-Description of the place-Pilgrims-Vessels of Arabia manned by Africans-Effect of the abolition of the Slave Trade-Historical Notices of Mandavie-Sepulchral Monuments- Coins
444
CHAPTER XXII.
Cath-kote, the ancient seat of the Cathi-Necropolis of the Raos of Cutch-The city of Bhooj— The Jhareja chiefs visit the Author-Their costume-Visit to the prince, Rao Desil―The hall of mirrors—The hall of audience-Historical notice of the Jharejas-The Yadu race- Genealogical traits of the Rajpoots-Extent of the Hindu affinities-Union of the Budha faith with the Yadu race-Yadu ancestry of the Jharejas-Power of the Yadus-The Yadus an Indo-Scythic race from Western Asia-The Sind-Summa Jharejas-Chronology-Extract from the Jhareja chronicles-Conversion of the Sind-Summa Jharejas to Islam-Successors of Lakha the Proud-Evils of Polygamy-First settlement of the Summa race in Cutch-Origin of the custom of infanticide amongst the Jharejas-Catastrophe of Mohlutkote-The practice still continued-Lakha, the first Jhareja-Raedhun, the founder of the Jhareja state, led a colony to the Great Rin-Rao Khengar, founder of Bhooj-The results of the genealogical history of the Jharejas...

CHAPTER XXIII.
Statistics and geography of Cutch-Its political constitution-The Bhydd, or Frèrage-Authority of the Rao-Tenure of estates-Case of disputed succession-Bhatna, or sub-infeudation, carried to a destructive extent-Cause of the differences between the political customs of the Western Rajpoot States and Cutch-Consequences of contact with the British Government- The British invited as mediators between the Rao and the Bhydd-A British subsidiary force introduced-All within the grasp of British authority-Mandavie-On board the Pattamar— Cross the Gulf-Appearance of a whale-Characters of the nakhoda and crew of the Pattamar -Arrrival at Bombay-Detention there-Its alleviating results-Conclusion